Description
“Extraordinary producers of Barolo, Luciano Sandrone and his wife worked at Marchesi di Barolo before acquiring a tiny plot of land outside their native village of Barolo in 1977. Theirs quickly became a cult wine, first with their 1982 and 1985 vintages. Then they made a wine that merited one of the first perfect scores I ever gave a Barolo, the 1990. There is attention to detail in the vineyard and in the winery at every level, and the results are wines that are hybrid creations, paying respect to both progressives and traditionalists.” Robert Parker, The World’s Greatest Wine Estates
“Luciano Sandrone is one of the leading lights in Piedmont. No grower has managed to so brilliantly reconcile modern and traditional approaches in making wines that are soft, supple and approachable when young, but also capable of aging beautifully.” Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate
One of the things least discussed about this famous producer is the quality of their work in the vineyards. Sandrone is truly one of the regional leaders in this area. Firstly, they are organic in a region where organic practice is still very rare. Secondly, Luca Sandrone is a perfectionist (like his brother) and is completely obsessed with the vines he manages. His focus is very much on making the vines stronger, healthier and more resilient rather than the symptomatic approach that is so typical. A great deal of the vineyard work is done by hand with the Estate employing twelve full time workers in the vines alone (for 27 hectares). Luca and Luciano openly reference Burgundy in their approach and seek to harvest only perfectly ripe and perfectly clean fruit. This is one of the keys to the purity and flesh of the wines. Another little known fact is that 30-50% of the fruit is fermented whole bunch with the destemmed portion of the fruit also having a very high percentage of whole berries. Luciano Sandrone remembers well that once upon a time all of the wines of the region were made without destemming. All the maturation occurs in large format oak, 500 litre and beyond, and only a small percentage of this oak is new (10% across the winery). In the cellar the work is very minimal with only wild yeast fermentation and no filtration. The macerations are managed very carefully and the bottling occurs relatively early as Luciano Sandrone wants to capture the finest tannins and as much fruit purity as possible (another key to understanding the wines produced here).
Of course, like all great growers, the main key is the vineyards themselves. There is no doubt that today Sandrone works with a spectacular range of Barolo vineyards. Yes there is the famous Cannubi Boschis, but there are also outstanding Barolo sites in Monforte, Serralunga, Castiglione Falletto, Novello and more in the Barolo township itself, that all feed the Le Vigne cuvee. Little wonder then that this wine now comfortably rivals (and some would argue in certain years eclipses) the Cannubi for quality.
About this wine: The name of the wine may have changed, but Sandrone’s flagship Barolo is still, and will always be, 100% Cannubi Boschis, the Barolo vineyard synonymous with this grower. The Boschis subzone sits near the northern end of the Cannubi hill directly across from the Sandrone cellars. Sandrone farms 1.9 hectares of 40-year-old vines in the Cru, which has a particularly good south and southeast exposure in a small amphitheatre or conca that helps hold warmth in the early morning. Its soils are sea deposits of calcareous clay with sand and therefore have excellent drainage.
Highlighting the uniqueness of the wines from this terroir compared to the rest of the Cannubi hill, Alessandro Masnaghetti’s L’Enciclopedia delle Grandi Vigne del Barolo writes: “The wines, in general, have good body, much elegance, and more polished tannins than other Cannubi wines.” The winemaking is identical to Le Vigne, aside from a little longer on skins. While both are extraordinary, the stylistic contrast is clear as day. Where Le Vigne is lifted and perfumed, and yet more classical and mineral, Aleste is more fleshy, layered and seductive when young.
98 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media: “The 2021 Barolo Aleste is off-the-charts gorgeous. Vertical and explosive in the glass, with tremendous energy, the 2021 possesses unbelievable richness married to vibrant energy. Plum, black cherry, gravel, lavender and mocha soar out of the glass. Readers will find a Barolo of stature and breeding.”
97 points, Monica Larner, Robert Parkers The Wine Advocate “With fruit from the Cannubi Boschis vineyard, the 2021 Barolo Aleste is a lavish and beautiful expression with dark fruit, spice, licorice, cola and blue flower. The house style is always fruit-forward and bold at the Sandrone family estate, but you can also count on the wines to show excellent contouring with oak spice, soft richness and texture thanks to expertly applied tonneaux aging. The balance is impeccable. “
RRP $412 Our Special Price $317.99 when you buy 3 or more of this wine.
