Description
Jaeger-Defaix is the family domaine of Hélène Defaix, wife of Didier Defaix (of Chablis producer Domaine Bernard Defaix). Most of the Jaeger-Defaix vineyards are Premier Cru and brilliantly situated. All the vineyards are managed organically. Given the family connection, it won’t surprise you to hear that this small five-hectare domaine is run in the same earth-to-glass spirit as Didier’s family Estate in Chablis. The connection to the land here is strong and goes back three generations—the great-grandfather of Hélène, Henri Niepce, was instrumental in achieving and promoting Rully’s AOC status in the 1930s.
The first vintage under Hélène and Didier’s full control was 2004. Since that time, they’ve built a strong reputation for cool, refreshingly elegant Chardonnay and sweetly scented, juicy Pinot Noir, all of which cost appreciably less money than wines of similar quality from the Côte d’Or.
Exposed south-east, Rully’s 1er Cru Les Cloux vineyard is located just above the 1er Cru Chapître on the classic clay/limestone mix that is found across the best sites in Burgundy. This is a site known for its ability to balance mouth-watering flesh with tangy grip and fine length. This 100% Chardonnay was fermented then aged in older barrels (up to seven years old) for 18 months. It was bottled after only a light filtration.
The 2020 is primed to take its place alongside other exceptional recent years for this address. It’s an impressively compact and sculpted white with aromas of stone fruits, savoury herbs, slight reduction and a wet pebble minerality melding with perfectly pitched, classy oak. The ample fruit weight is balanced with gentle grip and a racy, mineral-tinged backbone. By any measure, a very smart white Burgundy, with elegant lines and bags of energy that will provide enormous drinking pleasure at the table, from day one.
Review of 2019:
90-92 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound “Deft wood influence can be found on the white orchard fruit aromas that are laced with hints of citrus zest and acacia blossom. The succulent and slightly denser flavors possess good dry extract that imparts a sappy texture to the saline-inflected finale that is also quite dry and youthfully austere. This too will need at least some patience as there is fine development potential.”
RRP $105 Our Price $94.99 – VERY LIMITED
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