Description
Jean-Marc Boillot is a star of the Côte d’Or … “Few Burgundians are as talented in producing both whites and reds as Boillot. Few also have such a clear vision of what great Burgundy should taste like. With no fewer than 21 appellations at his disposal, he manages to produce seductively rich, dense and concentrated whites and reds in all years.” Per-Henrik Mansson, Wine Spectator
Jasper Morris MW, author of Inside Burgundy … “Jean-Marc Boillot is a grandson of Etienne Sauzet, and was previously winemaker for Olivier Leflaive. With that mixture of winemaking pedigree and experience it comes as no surprise that Jean-Marc Boillot makes sensational wines. He is one of those rare commodities in Burgundy, a winemaker who produces both red and white wines of the highest quality. Now assisted by daughter Lydie and son Benjamin, Jean-Marc Boillot set up his own domaine in 1985. He started with some rented vines in Pommard, adding Volnay and Pommard from his grandfather’s side in 1988 and the whites, a one-third share of Domaine Etienne Sauzet, from his grandmother in 1991. Including generic burgundy, the domaine now exploits 11 hectares, five red and six white, with the same volume again in négociant cuvées of white wines, especially from the Côte Chalonnaise.
Jean-Marc Boillot now has 10.5 hectares of vines in the Côte de Beaune which include vineyards previously owned by Domaine Sauzet in Puligny. He is a stocky, fit, energetic man who does not waste time with words, instead allowing his wines to speak for themselves. His reds are rich, rounded and exhibit great purity of fruit, his white wines are characterised by their huge concentration, class and wonderful expression of their terroir.
All the whites, except the grand cru, are vinified in the same way: whole-bunch pressed, settled for 24 hours then straight to barrel with 25 to 30 per cent new wood, lees-stirring once a week and bottling before the next harvest. They are pure, fresh, attractive wines. The reds are entirely destalked, given a cool soak before the fermentation begins after which a mix of punching down and pumping over is used according to the vintage and vineyard. Thirteen months barrel ageing, with 50 per cent new barrels, is followed by a further six months maturation in tank before bottling. The reds show a bright combination between fruit and barrel, good for medium-term ageing. “
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media notes made in January 2018 on the 2016’s:
“Lydie Boillot, who told me that her father Jean-Marc recently retired at the age of 68 after making 47 vintages, believes that 2016 will be a good vintage to age thanks to its firm acid framework. She’s also concerned that the ‘15s “will give surprises in a negative way on ageability.” Two thousand fifteen was a hotter year that produced richer wines, so, needless to say, Jean-Marc Boillot, who has consistently been an early picker with the objective of retaining freshness, prefers both his 2014s and 2016s. (By the way, I find it hard to believe that the energetic Jean-Marc will be pried away from his vineyards or cellar anytime soon.)
The 2016 harvest began on September 19, with potential alcohol levels around 12.5%. The estate lost about 50% of its crop overall, making no Beaune at all and suffering serious frost losses in the lower sections of Pommard Jarollières and Rugiens. Production in Volnay Le Ronceret and Carelle Sous La Chapelle was off by 50% but Pitures was not affected, according to Lydie Boillot. The estate bottled early (in December) as the Boillots wanted to preserve the crunchy fruit character of the vintage… ”
Vines (0.68 acre) planted in 1958-1959 on clay-limestone. Very low yielding vintage of fabulous quality.
91 points, Neal Martin, Vinous Media, March 2018: ” 2016 Volnay Carelle Sous La Chapelle has an enticing dark berry fruit and wild hedgerow scented bouquet, a splash of soy in the background. The palate is taut and vivacious on entry, the black and red fruit furnished with white pepper and a touch of sage, leading to a bright and vivid finish. Excellent. Drinking window: 2020 to 2030″
