Mount Macleod Chardonnay 2023

Description

Mount Macleod is the second label of the Burgundian-inspired (and boutique-scaled) Caledonia Australis who, in their fairly short lifespan, have carved a reputation amongst Pinot cognoscenti as a fine source of excellent value, aromatically complex and elegant Pinot Noir.

Mark Matthews is never going to win any awards for marketing or self-promotion, so it’s just as well he’s good at his day job!  The kind of green credentials practiced at this family-owned Gippsland Estate deserve to be applauded. Winegrower-ecologist Matthews has recently passed his 10th year of organic certification, and has instigated a weed management program using a combination of fire-stick and hard labour. As part of a widespread replanting program for both ecological and carbon-offset purposes, he has planted the 14,000th tree on the property, and since 2012 he has been slowly establishing native grasses between blocks. While we’re on a roll, he is now in his fourth year of removing weak or unsuitable vines and replacing with massale selections. Matthews’ attention to detail also runs through his packaging program which includes specially imported, post-consumer recycled paper for his labels (printers do not offer this product in Australia), recycled, unbleached paper for his cartons and the most sustainable glass he can find—bottles that are lighter and therefore have a lower carbon footprint. We could go on.

Of course, all this eco-energy would be moot were the wines not up-to-scratch and such remarkable value. In fact, for as long as we have been in business, Matthews has quietly been going about crafting some of the keenest-priced Victorian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on the market. Mount Macleod’s three vineyard sites, all in the Leongatha region, were selected to an exacting criteria; free-draining, high ironstone soils with pebbling throughout, and an east to north-east aspect. The vines are dry-grown and yields, which might easily blow out in the fertile Leongatha soils, are strictly controlled. In short, Matthews grows lovely, organic fruit and his simple, paired back winemaking regime—which includes wild ferments and only neutral oak—is designed to deliver this modest message to bottle with as much honesty as possible.

For those new to the label, Mount Macleod’s wines are about great value, honest-to-goodness deliciousness from an organic Australian grower with an impressive set of values and practices. If you don’t know the wines, do yourself a favour.

Sometimes you have to call it like you see it: Mount MacLeod should be one of Australia’s go-to value producers. After all, this a dedicated and eco-minded grower in the truest sense and one arguably crafting the best-value organically managed Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Victoria. Macleod’s sloping, south-facing Chardonnay block sits on the classic well-drained, red ferrosol of South Gippsland. This parcel was first to gain organic certification in 2008, the vines are dry-grown and yields—which might easily blow out in the fertile Leongatha soils—are strictly controlled, averaging a bizarrely low (given the pricing) 1.5 tonnes per acre.

In the shed, the guiding principle for Mark Matthews is to have confidence in the fruit and allow it to sit at the heart of all decision-making. Consequently, his pared-back winemaking regime, encompassing wild ferments and only neutral oak, is designed to deliver his subtle message with as much integrity as possible. This year, 5% of the fruit was fermented on skins to add texture and phenolic tension to the blend, while the balance was pressed as whole bunches. The wine was divided between concrete vessels with no malolactic conversion, and 15+-year-old barriques with partial malolactic conversion. Both batches rested on lees with no stirring for nine months. With a touch more grip than last year, this is another terrific value from one of Victoria’s most green-fingered growers. Expect punchy and vibrant citrus flavours, mouth-watering freshness and an impressively long close.

RRP $33  Our Special Price $24.99 when you buy 6 or more of this wine.