Description
Maree Collis and Ray Nadeson are not your average winemaker/owners of a boutique winery. Both were initially trained as research scientists and hold PhD degrees in chemistry and medicine, respectively. Mid career they made the decision to pursue their alternate passion and together with friend Adrian Thomas established Lethbridge Wines in 1996. Both Maree and Ray completed their winemaking degree at Charles Sturt University after which Ray concluded “winemaking is not really that different to science, both are creative and both involve 99% perspiration, 1% inspiration”.
Not surprisingly, the site at Lethbridge was selected based on scientific principles such as soil type, degree days and other climatic indicators, yet after purchasing the property in Lethbridge they discovered an ancient old wooden fermentation vat in one of the old sheds. Further investigation revealed that site had originally been planted by Swiss vignerons in the 1870’s before the scourge of phylloxera decimated the Geelong wine region. This story is compelling in the connection between traditional wisdom and modern science.
The focus of Lethbridge Wines is to produce wines that are textural, savoury and reveal characters true to variety and terroir. The wines of Lethbridge are generally single varietal wines or mirror a traditional European blend. The winemaking team, led by Ray Nadeson, are committed to excellence. The fruit, if not estate grown, is from selected special sites tended by passionate people. The barrels are directly imported, with Ray even visiting the forests with the Coopers to select the trees to be felled and the wines are benchmarked with the best in the world. Each vintage something new is learned.
While best known for the varieties of the Geelong region, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Shiraz, Lethbridge also produce a wide range which includes Riesling, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Merlot, Sangiovese and more, with the most recent exciting addition to the vineyard and cellar being Gamay.
Named after daughter Allegra, this is Maree Collis and Ray Nadeson’s flagship Chardonnay. They source the fruit for the Allegra Chardonnay from the historic Rebenberg vineyard in Mount Duneed. Located 10 kilometres southwest of Geelong, the vineyard was initially planted in 1858 and replanted in 1968 by Ken and Joy Campbell. The Chardonnay vines are now almost 50 years old (planted in 1981, making them the oldest Chardonnay vines in Geelong). They are rooted in gravel and quartz soil and give extremely low yields of less than 12 hl/ha. These low yields and old vines go some way to explain how the Rebenberg vineyard always delivers “fruit of incredible density and acid”, according to Ray.
Fruit for the 2018 Allegra was picked by hand and pressed as whole bunches before barrel fermentation. The wine underwent full malolactic conversion and matured for 11 months in new oak, which Ray says allows “the oak tannins to frame the wine”. The wine then aged in bottle for a further three years before release. Lethbridge and Chardonnay are a match made in heaven, and here we have exhibit A.
From the winemaker: “As our 22nd Anniversary in wine passed this year I have had many reasons to reflect on the wines we have made. I have been very satisfied by the way many of them have aged and still retain a real sense of place and time. This has led me to think about what it was about these wines that allowed them to age so graciously. Determining ageabilty of a wine is not an exact science. That being said there are three traits that are important to a wine’s longevity. These are acidity, tannin structure and fruit density. This Allegra has incredible acidity with a pH 3.14 (after 100% MLF). It was elevaged in 100% new oak allowing the oak tannins to frame this wine. Finally, it comes from a vineyard that is 48 years old and only produces 12Hl/Ha giving incredible fruit density. I think a wine to enjoy for quite some time.
“As always, the Allegra is fully barrel fermented and aged for 11 months in new French puncheons. Vibrant stone fruit with hints of citrus dance across the palate with support from some toast and spice from the oak. 2018 shows amazing promise to cellar for decades.”
95 points, Jeni Port, for Halliday’s Wine Companion “Lethbridge‘s flagship chardonnay, capable of stopping you in your tracks. With fineness, concentration of fruit and judicious winemaking, this is one of Geelong’s best expressions of the grape. Citrus to the fore on the bouquet, with grapefruit, lemon, white nectarine and almond-meal notes. Fine lined throughout with a tantalising theme of bush herbs and lemon thyme. Bright, crystalline freshness to close.”
95 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front “Powerful style of Chardonnay from Geelong, most often. Stonefruit, preserved lemon, wheat germ, mint and garden herbs, cashew nuts. It’s intense in acidity, but rich in ripe lemon and peach flavour, kind of savoury and saline too, oatmeal and grapefruit, glossy yet flinty, with a finish of huge length and gently nutty oxidative character. Such personality, power, and presence. Wonderful.”
94 points, Ned Goodwin MW, jamessuckling.com “A rich Chardonnay in the context of Australian tendencies to push the linear, reductive and taut. Yet there is no dearth of freshness. White peach, truffled lees and brulee segue to mineral crunch, a lick of classy oak and a long, penetrative finish. This mid-weighted, bottled aged iteration is for flavor hounds as much for those who like textural interplay and considerable complexity. Drink or hold. Screw cap.”
RRP $114 Our Special Price $88.99 when you buy 6 or more of this wine.
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