Description
The Huber winery is located in Malterdingen in the winegrowing region of Baden in the foothills of the Black Forest mountains in Germany’s deep south west. Pinot Noir has been cultivated in the village for well over 700 years, having been brought there from Burgundy by the Cistercian monks. About two-thirds of the 25 ha estate is given over to Pinot Noir, and from these vines Bernhard Huber made scintillating wines right up to his death from illness in June 2014. This gracious gentleman had taken pointers in the early days from his great friend Jacques Seysses at Domaine Dujac but never tried to make his Pinots taste like Burgundy, instead drawing on those ideas to express the sites around Malterdingen and surrounding villages. Winemaking responsibilities have passed to Bernhard’s son Julian, who’s inherited his father’s passion for Baden and dedication to quality.
Julian Huber grew up among the vines in Malterdingen, an apprentice to the “wizard of German Pinot Noir”, as Jancis Robinson’s German specialist Michael Schmidt referred to Julian’s father, Bernhard. Julian studied winemaking at the world-famous institute at Geisenheim in the Rheingau. He returned from his final year there to work Bernhard’s final vintage in 2013. Since Bernhard’s death in 2014, Julian’s taken up the winemaking mantle with aplomb, displaying the same humble energy and vision for which his father was rightly admired.
The great Australian wine oracle, James Halliday, once wrote: “German Pinot Noir – why you need it in your life”. In his tasting of the 2012’s, Halliday commented on hitting the first grand cru: “As you ascend the steps of the quality ladder of Huber, the quality of each wine seems to be incapable of being overtaken, but it is.” As if to prove the point, he then encountered the Schlossberg and wrote: “Improbably, there is another level, here in unassailable Grand Cru country, a toss-up between Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin, with echoes of each.”
About this wine and the 2021 vintage: The 2021 vintage in Baden presented a series of climactic challenges that significantly influenced the region’s viticulture. Spring was marked by late frosts and icy winds, which caused damage to young buds in some vineyards, with losses reaching up to 80% in certain areas. The subsequent cooler and wetter summer further complicated grape development, necessitating vigilant vineyard management to combat increased disease pressure, particularly from downy mildew. Despite these adversities, a favorable late summer with cool nights allowed for a gradual ripening process, resulting in lean wines rich in aroma.
Bernhard Huber Estate adeptly navigated these conditions to produce notable wines in 2021. The estate’s commitment to meticulous vineyard practices and traditional winemaking techniques is evident in their offerings from this vintage.
The grapes are hand harvested with careful selection. Vinification follows traditional methods, including malolactic fermentation, and the wine is aged in a combination of first, second, and third-fill barriques for a total of 14 months. Notably, the wine is bottled without filtration, preserving its authentic character.
91 points, Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate Tasted at the Domaine in October 2023 “This spätburgunder is recognised for its elegance and complexity. There are subtle nuances, and the unfiltered bottle approach contributes to a rich and authentic expression of the terroir. Huber’s organically produced 2021 Malterdinger Spätburgunder is from several loess sites around the village and cultivated on more fertile soils than the crus. Almost entirely based on French genetics that have been cultivated here for 30 years, the 2021 displays a dark cherry color and an intense and meaty bouquet of dark berries with remarkable finesse and purity as well as a noble touch of oak (30% new oak). From seven- to 30-year-old vines, this is a pure, fresh and intense Pinot with riper and concentrated fruit, fine and spicy tannins and a stimulatingly refreshing as well as aromatic finish. About 15,000 bottles are produced of this wine since Julian only uses French genetics and the right plots for this excellent village wine. It was bottled in spring 2023 with 13.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. “
RRP $106 Our Special Price $94.99 – VERY LIMITED
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