Bernhard Huber Malterdingen Pinot Noir 2013

Description

Bernhard Huber produces stunning pinots across the board with old world structure and new world polish and fruit weight! Malterdingen, in Baden Germany, was planted to Pinot Noir almost a millennium ago by the Cistercian Monks who cultivated Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin because of the similar soil.

Julian Huber is a fine gentleman in the mould of his father, and it’s clear his wines would make the late, great Bernhard Huber proud. Bernhard, who died in June 2014, did so much to awaken the world’s attention to Baden’s potential for great Pinot Noir. He was a “universal genius” according to the Gault Millau German Wine Guide. He loved Malterdingen and his part in shining a contemporary light on an area blessed with a long but little-known Pinot history. That this tradition – begun in the 1200s by Cistercian monks from Burgundy – is being enriched by another Huber with genius in his blood, is something to celebrate.
Julian started working alongside Bernhard in 2008.  Four years later, during his final year of study at Geisenheim, his father found out he was seriously ill. That’s when the reins effectively passed from Germany’s “wizard of Pinot Noir” to his apprentice.  These 2013 wines are an excellent reflection of Julian’s foundations and intent.  There’s greater subtlety and the oak has retreated further into the background.  The wines still have the same vitality and raw fruit power, but they’re a touch more restrained and – if you will – Burgundian.

The great Australian wine oracle, James Halliday, was even moved last year to pen an article based on them, bearing the title: “German Pinot Noir – why you need it in your life”. In his tasting of the 2012’s, Halliday commented on hitting the first grand cru: “As you ascend the steps of the quality ladder of Huber, the quality of each wine seems to be incapable of being overtaken, but it is.” As if to prove the point, he then encountered the Schlossberg and wrote: “Improbably, there is another level, here in unassailable Grand Cru country, a toss-up between Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin, with echoes of each.”

From vines up to 25 years of age, with deeper roots, 30 to 35% whole bunch. After harvesting the grapes with a crop round about 55 hl per ha, this wine matures for 12 months in three- and four-year-old barriques. The Malterdinger is Huber’s village wine and my favourite as the calibre of his Pinot shines for quality and value. Do not miss out on this extraordinary pinot from this world class producer.

RRP $70