Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2013

Description

Legions of wine lovers consider this tiny cantina in the middle of the town of Barolo a must-visit and a privilege. And Maria-Teresa Mascarello, despite having virtually no more wine to sell anyone, gives everyone the same hospitality.

Maria-Teresa Mascarello has effectively been the winemaker here since the late 90’s, as her father began to lose his mobility, to be eventually confined to a wheelchair. Some critics think under her care, that a very few minor improvements (or changes, anyway) have resulted in even fresher and more vibrant reds, but they essentially are the same simply made, yet stunningly authentic and expressive versions of Dolcetto, Barbera, a lively traditional (slightly spritzy) Freisa and the one Barolo. With each of these, Mascarello defy so much of what goes on around them. The Freisa, Dolcetto and Barbera vines stay planted in vineyards, which for most other producers would have been turned over to the production of the much more lucrative Nebbiolo. The vinification is all concrete tanks, long fermentations on skins and aging in large old oak. The famous Barolo itself, is still just called Barolo and is a blend of 4 crus, three in Barolo (commune) and one in La Morra commune. The wry Bartolo would tell that “…if I made a Cru I’d just have to charge more.”

Despite their world-wide demand, Maria-Teresa has no interest in buying new vineyards. There is no website and no email. The wines, gentle and persistent, reflect their maker. No one who visits this tranquil little haven of tradition goes away wondering what all the fuss is about.

98+ points Antonio Galloni of Vinous Media: “Maria Teresa’s 2013 Barolo is a stunning, drop-dead gorgeous beauty. Vibrant, crystalline and exceptionally nuanced, the 2013 speaks to elegance above all else. There is an exotic quality to the aromatics that adds to the wine’s total sense of seduction. As captivating as the 2013 is today, there is no shortage of underlying grip and structure. Dark cherry, plum, spice, menthol and licorice are some of the many notes that grace the palate. But the 2013 is a wine of completeness rather than elements. And the 2013 simply has it all. In 2013, Mascarello opted for short-ish fermentation with limited post-fermentation maceration because the skins were a bit fragile. The result is a delicate wine that shows just how finessed young Barolo can be. (Feb 2017)

96 points Monica Larner,  Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
Bartolo Mascarello’s 2013 Barolo is made with the estate’s traditional blend of vineyard sites. This includes the San Lorenzo cru that will go offline starting with the 2015 vintage. This is a classic and traditional interpretation of Nebbiolo with an absolutely pristine and polished flavor profile. The bouquet opens to pressed violet, cassis, licorice, wild sage and cola. There is an elegant mineral imprint as well with rusty iron and iodine. This edition is evermore solid and centered compared to the warmer 2012 vintage. It will also require extra bottle aging in order to bring out its natural, but nuanced intensity. June 2017

96 points Bruce Sanderson in Wine Spectator:
“Round and smooth, with a core of cherry surrounded by leather, licorice and underbrush flavors. Tobacco and mineral accents mingle and add complexity as this cruises to a lingering aftertaste, building to the expansive finish. Best from 2020 through 2040. 1,350 cases made. December 2017 “