Description
“This is an impressive set of 2017s from the Rocca family. The estate has been on a roll these last few vintages. Like all 2017s, the Albino Rocca Barbarescos are on the lighter side, but what stands out in the range is a level of site expression that is rare in this vintage.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“Paola, Monica and Daniela Rocca have unhesitatingly taken up the winemaking and moral legacy of their father Angelo following since his untimely death in 2012. They now continue with the story…” Gambero Rosso 2015
It’s easy to forget that Nebbiolo, produced from great sites and mature vines can be a wickedly seductive wine to drink young. The late Angelo Rocca was a master at reminding us of this fact. His wines – and now those of this daughters – are plump, textural, seductive Barbaresco’s that are surprisingly forward yet clearly have the stuffing and powdery tannins to age. All of the Rocca wines are from Estate vineyards and all are grown 100 percent within the boundaries of the Barbaresco region (even the Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo d’Alba and Moscato!).
When Angelo Rocca tragically passed away in 2012 in a light plane accident, Barbaresco lost one of its most distinguished growers. It also lost a wonderful person and a deeply respected member of the Piemontese community. Rocca was a grower operating at the peak of his powers and producing the most exciting, terroir-intense wines of his career. His three daughters (Daniela, Monica and Paola) along with Angelo’s cellarmaster (and son-in-law) Carlo are determined to continue this legacy and so far they have not missed a beat.
The Rocca’s efforts to continually improve the quality of all of their Estate’s wines, has resulted in some superb offerings over the last few vintages. All of the wines are aged in large, neutral botti and remain contemporary in the sense that they are ripe, pure and meticulously made, but instead of any distracting new oak character you have solely the wonderful dark cherry, floral and savoury structured personality of Nebbiolo in all its Piemontese glory. Albino Rocca’s wines are not only outstanding examples of Barbaresco writ large, they are also very fairly priced.
In addition to its classic source–a parcel of old vines in Meruzzano–Rocca’s Barbaresco now takes in young vine fruit from three Barbaresco cru parcels: Ovello, Ronchi and Cottà, the latter rooted in the sandy soils of Neive. Since 2010, the Rocca’s decision to allow a much longer maceration (now three weeks on skins), and to mature their wines exclusively in large Stockinger botti has paid obvious dividends, as has the choice to take the wines out of wood after 20 months (previously 24).
This is one producer who has managed to follow their outstanding 2016 Barbaresco with an equally compelling set of 2017 wines. The 2017 harvest was a dry and warm one and, in general, very low yielding. But the Rocca wines are vibrant, fresh, perfumed and delicate. This has to do with the impact (or in this case, the lack of impact) of hail and frost which affected much of Barbaresco. But not all—the Rocca vineyards were spared.
The wines are unquestionably lighter than the previous release—but these are almost Pinot-weighted with so much succulent depth and texture. A Burgundy lover’s set of Barbaresco! Every wine has oodles of precise, sweet fruit with superb acidity and powder-fine tannins to balance. Each wine also speaks clearly of its place. Another release that reflects so highly on this family and the current approach of the Rocca sisters. Bravissimo!
“The 2017 Barbaresco is a gorgeous entry-level offering from Albino Rocca. Ample and beautifully resonant on the palate, the 2017 possesses striking depth while retaining all of the glorious translucence of Nebbiolo. In this vintage, the 2017 has a bit more body and overall richness than is the norm, but that works so well in dialing up the sweet red berry, spice, mint and floral notes. It is such a gorgeous wine.” 92 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“A lovely expression of cherry, plum, licorice and spice flavors marks this supple red, which firms up midpalate through the finish, where dusty tannins leave a mouthcoating impression. Fine balance.” 93 points, Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator
RRP $99 *SPECIAL 6 BOTTLE OR MORE BUY ..
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