Lethbridge Ménage à Noir 2023

Description

Maree Collis and Ray Nadeson are not your average winemaker/owners of a boutique winery. Both were initially trained as research scientists and hold PhD degrees in chemistry and medicine, respectively. Mid career they made the decision to pursue their alternate passion and together with friend Adrian Thomas established Lethbridge Wines in 1996. Both Maree and Ray completed their winemaking degree at Charles Sturt University after which Ray concluded “winemaking is not really that different to science, both are creative and both involve 99% perspiration, 1% inspiration”.

Not surprisingly, the site at Lethbridge was selected based on scientific principles such as soil type, degree days and other climatic indicators, yet after purchasing the property in Lethbridge they discovered an ancient old wooden fermentation vat in one of the old sheds. Further investigation revealed that site had originally been planted by Swiss vignerons in the 1870’s before the scourge of phylloxera decimated the Geelong wine region. This story is compelling in the connection between traditional wisdom and modern science.

The focus of Lethbridge Wines is to produce wines that are textural, savoury and reveal characters true to variety and terroir.  The wines of Lethbridge are generally single varietal wines or mirror a traditional European blend.  The winemaking team, led by Ray Nadeson, are committed to excellence.  The fruit, if not estate grown, is from selected special sites tended by passionate people.  The barrels are directly imported, with Ray even visiting the forests with the Coopers to select the trees to be felled and the wines are benchmarked with the best in the world.  Each vintage something new is learned.

While best known for the varieties of the Geelong region, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Shiraz, Lethbridge also produce a wide range which includes Riesling, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Merlot, Sangiovese and more, with the most recent exciting addition to the vineyard and cellar being Gamay.

About this wine: Ray Nadeson describes the Ménage à Noir Pinot Noir as “Lethbridge-lite”; we prefer to think of it as the opening act to this producer’s impressive suite of Pinot Noirs. It’s a blend of sites, but the lion’s share (75%) comes from Jack and Lois Doeven’s cool site in Drumborg (Henty). This low-yielding vineyard with well-established vines was planted in the 1980s and rooted in schist soils. The balance of the fruit comes from Geelong.

The destemmed fruit ferments in a combination of 5,00-litre open vats and 3,000-litre wooden fermenters; the fruit in the vats gets punched down, while the fruit in the wooden fermenters is pumped over daily. The wine then matures in a mixture of old and new (approximately 10%) French oak of various sizes (225/300/2,500 litres).

Bright, fresh and vibrant on the nose, it’s equally vivid on the palate. The signature Lethbridge energy and raciness are balanced nicely by perfectly ripe berry fruits, earthy spice and a crunchy, sappy and lasting close. A real winner, and fine value.