Description
“Georges Descombes is one of the stalwarts of Beaujolais. Inspired by the late Marcel Lapierre in the early 1980s when he worked for his father’s bottling company, he is one of the more well-known of the natural producers since taking over the domaine in the hamlet of Vermont from his father in 1988, with all but a half a hectare to his name. Some refer to him as the unofficial fifth member of the “Gang of Four.” Nowadays, he farms about 16 hectares in Brouilly, Régnié, Morgon, Beaujolais Villages, Beaujolais and Chiroubles, the vineyard husbandry organic (certified Ecocert) and using just copper and sulfur.” Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate, Issue 213, 6/26/14
Georges Descombes is affectionately know throughout the Beaujolais and in Paris and basically wherever his wines can be found, as “Noune”. In fact I have never heard him called Georges. All the greats in the Beaujolais have nicknames, Jean Foillard is called “P’tit Jean” and Yvon Metras is called “L’Avion” – don’t ask me why! He began commercializing his own wines in 1988. (Incidentally the same year as Yvon Métras)
Georges took over from his father in 1988 and now farms 15 hectares in Brouilly, Régnié, Morgon, Beaujolais Villages, Beaujolais and Chiroubles, with the winery in the hamlet of Vermont, northeast of Villié-Morgon. Inspired by the wines of Marcel Lapierre and others, Georges’ wines are firmly in the “natural” camp and his farming is certified organic – not always the case among other natural producers in Beaujolais. Grapes are hand-harvested in whole clusters and pressed very slowly in an old vertical press with modern, precise pressure control, fermented with natural yeasts in a long, low temperature semi-carbonic maceration – minimal or zero sulfur is used, only before bottling. (Approximately 10 – 20 mg/L in 2018.) Descombes is a true master of this type of winemaking – starting of course with great farming, bringing out beautifully complex aromas and gorgeous fruit on the palate, undiminished by excess SO2, beautifully balanced, clean and long. In short, the Descombes wines are among the finest and most consistent in Beaujolais and his 2018s are simply outstanding!
Somewhat similar to 2009 – the last vintage that received huge point scores in the American wine press – the warm and dry 2018 vintage produced wines that are ripe and lush, but lower in alcohol and with brighter, fresher aromas and flavors than the 2009s. The 2018 Descombes wines are supple and sapid and blessed with good acidity. The fruit is complex and ripe, and while there are the black fruits that one associates with a warm vintage in Beaujolais, the brighter red fruits are there as well providing a complex and delightful cornucopia of aromas and flavours. The Vieilles Vignes cuvées are very limited in availability this year, don’t delay!
Beaujolais in late January makes for an eerie landscape. The gray, cloudy skies are set against hectares of dead earth dotted with lines of stunted, gnarly vines, pruned down for the dormant stages of winter. In the morning, fog rolls over and down the hillsides and the wet clay sticks to your shoes with a vengence. It’s a great time to see the stark differences between conventional and organic farming. Even in the cold of January, the vineyards of Georges Descombes have a bright, green ground cover with small flowers just beginning to bloom. His vines looked like they were still sleeping as the earth slowly wakes up. The conventional vineyards look just like the surface of the moon… This superb wine is from the famed Grille-Midi section of Fleurie – Yvon Metras has his vines here too. This has a super granite/floral nose that is very attractive, particularly the top notes of strawberries and violets. This is a super bottle; sweet, fresh, crunchy – perfect balance and super length.
RRP $85 Our price $72.99 – Limited stock
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